CREATING WATER IN A DIORAMA

The methods and materials used to replicate water in modeling are as diverse as the
shapes and forms nature uses to display water.

I almost exclusively use clear casting or epoxy resins, preferably products sold by
Faller (A:B-1:1) or SMOOTH–ON (Christal Clear, A:B-1:1). Also, I generally use resins
with a binder-to-hardener mixing ratio of 1:1, because these are easiest to work with.
Most of the other commercially available materials are less suitable because they
either do not cure, they soften again with time, or they become brittle. Water glass or
plastic films will not let you achieve the desired optical effects. Occasionally, I have
seen water surfaces made of plaster of Paris covered with acrylic paints, but these are
not nearly as realistic as epoxies.

Whatever the type of resin you are using, there are some general rules that apply to
all of them:

The area to be poured has to be dry and, most importantly, “water” tight. After mixing,
leave the resin to rest for some time to allow air and other gases to escape. You may
even want to use a vacuum device for degassing. Then slowly pour the resin into your
model. Considerable heat develops as the hardener comes into contact with the
epoxy. Therefore, be sure to never add layers that are deeper than 6 mm. Do not add
an additional layer until the previous one has cured completely. If you do, tension
cracks may develop, because each layer will have a different drying time. The air and
gas bubbles that form as the resin cures can be removed by poking with a needle.

Unless you disturb the resin to build the effect of a wavy surface, all types of resins will
ultimately cure into level surfaces. With one small but notable exception: When
recreating a river, for example, you will notice a small elevation along the edges,
because the resin creeps up along the bank, leaving an unrealistically glossy area. To
achieve a level transition between the water surface and the edge of a pond, the bank
of a river, or a sandy beach, you will have to rework these areas. To do so, cover the
water surface with masking (e.g., Revell Colour Stop) along the bank, leaving a
clearance of about 2 mm between the bank and the masking. Then, touch up the area
between the bank and the masking with the materials you used to build the shore,
bank, or beach. Finally, carefully remove the masking before the material is completely
dry.

MURKY WATER (rivers in swampy areas, ponds, and puddles)

The resin by FALLER as well as epoxy resins are somewhat murky by nature and they
turn yellow with time because they are not UV resistant. That’s why they are perfect for
replicating murky waters. Depending on the type of water you want to depict, you can
also dye the resin by adding green or brown polyester paint. Because you cannot see
to the bottom of muddy water, you will not need to pour more than one layer of about 6
to 8 mm.

To cover up patches of resin creeping up, you can also add shrubs or bushes along
the adges. Hairs from paint brushes or plumber’s hemp are perfect to imitate grass or
reed jutting out of the water. I prefer hemp because it is not as stiff as brush hairs. To
get a realistic look, simply glue the grass onto the water surface with white glue after
the resin has cured; if you install the grass or reed before pouring, the resin will creep
up along the hairs, resulting in an unrealistic look.

CLEAR WATER (rivers, brooks, and lakes)

Because many clear waters have a slightly yellowish appearance, you can again use
resin by FALLER. When recreating clear waters, however, you will have to do some
groundwork before you pour the water by working sand and gravel, dry twigs, and
dusting or flocking materials into the base. You can then apply different shades of
dark and light greenish-brown paint to achieve the illusion of depth. This effect will be
intensified by the refractive power of the resin.

However, to depict absolutely clear water, such as a mountain brook or ocean water,
my favorite product is one by SMOOTH ON, i.e., CRYSTAL CLEAR. It is UV resistant
and does not lose its clarity. To recreate the bottom of the sea, you can use materials
such as sand, flocking material, moss, and stones, to only name a few - there are
absolutely no limits to your creativity.

When depicting coastal areas, you will not only incorporate some authentic maritime
vegetation, you will also want to imitate the transition from shallow to deep waters. To
accomplish this, paint the ground in colors ranging from turquoise to dark blue. Again,
the resin layer will intensity the appearance of depth. You may even want to dye the
resin itself with small amounts of paint to create beautiful color reflexions, especially
when doing sandy beaches or icebergs.

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